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Case Study: Prada and the Kolhapuri Chappal Controversy | UPSC Ethics paper 4 Case Study

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Case Study: Prada and the Kolhapuri Chappal Controversy

Case:

You are a senior official in the Ministry of Textiles, Government of India. A global luxury fashion brand, Prada, recently launched a new line of leather footwear that bears a striking resemblance to the traditional Kolhapuri chappals, a centuries-old handcrafted footwear native to Maharashtra and parts of Karnataka. These chappals, known for their distinct design and cultural heritage, have received Geographical Indication (GI) tag status in India, recognizing the artisan communities that sustain this legacy.

However, Prada’s product description made no mention of India, Kolhapur, or the artisans who created the original design. The footwear is priced exorbitantly higher than traditional Kolhapuris and marketed as a “unique luxury design.” This has led to outrage among artisan groups and activists, who have accused Prada of cultural appropriation and intellectual theft.

The issue is further complicated by the fact that:

  • There is no formal international enforcement mechanism for GI tags.
  • Artisans involved in making original Kolhapuris often live in poverty, lacking legal literacy and global reach.
  • Prada claims the design was “inspired by global influences” and not a direct copy.

As an officer, you are tasked with evaluating the situation and advising on a potential course of action.

Questions:

  1. Identify and explain the key ethical issues involved in this case.
  2. How does this case reflect the ethical tension between globalization and cultural preservation?
  3. What role should corporate responsibility play in such matters, especially concerning traditional knowledge and design?
  4. As a public servant, what actions will you recommend to protect indigenous artisans and prevent such incidents in the future?
  5. Discuss the values of justice, fairness, and integrity in the context of this case.
  6. Suggest a long-term ethical framework to promote fair recognition and economic benefit to traditional artisans in the global market.
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Suggested Solutions:

1. Ethical Issues Involved:

  • Cultural Appropriation: Using traditional designs without permission or acknowledgment.
  • Exploitation of Asymmetry: Global brands benefit from designs created by marginalized artisans without sharing benefits.
  • Lack of Consent & Recognition: No involvement or mention of original creators.
  • Violation of Ethical Business Practices: Profiting without ensuring fairness or attribution.
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2. Globalization vs. Cultural Preservation:

  • Globalization allows cross-cultural inspiration but must not come at the cost of erasing identity or depriving rightful ownership.
  • Ethical globalization respects origins and provides benefit-sharing models.
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3. Corporate Responsibility:

  • Brands should conduct due diligence on cultural designs.
  • Acknowledge the source communities, offer collaboration, or share royalties.
  • Should operate with conscience, not just compliance.
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4. Recommended Actions:

  • File diplomatic protest or legal notice through WIPO or WTO platforms.
  • Encourage bilateral talks on respecting GI and traditional rights.
  • Promote branding and global marketing of authentic Kolhapuris through e-commerce.
  • Provide legal aid and awareness training to artisan clusters.
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5. Role of Justice, Fairness & Integrity:

  • Justice demands recognition and economic compensation.
  • Fairness calls for equal opportunities for traditional creators.
  • Integrity lies in protecting cultural heritage and standing up for voiceless communities.
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6. Long-Term Ethical Framework:

  • Build Global Ethical Guidelines for use of traditional art in fashion and design.
  • Promote ethical certification for products that are inspired by traditional designs.
  • Include artisans in design partnerships, not just as labor but as IP contributors.
  • Strengthen international recognition of GI under agreements like TRIPS.

 

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